daoudasonko

Daouda Sonko, mannequin, noir et musulman

Lu par 6371 Boytown

Réussir une carrière de mannequin pour un jeune homme noir et de confession musulmane, en France, est un véritable chemin de croix. Pourtant, le Sénégalais Daouda Sonko veut relever le défi.

Il est déjà rare de voir des femmes noires faire la une des magazines. Elles deviennent une espèce en voie de disparition quand leur peau tend trop vers l’ébène.

Alors, imaginer un homme, noir ébène faire ce métier relève de l’impossible, d’autant plus s’il est de tradition musulmane.

Epluchez un magazine masculin ou féminin et vous réaliserez très vite que trouver un mannequin noir est une perte de temps. Cela revient à chercher une aiguille dans une botte de foin.

Pourtant ce ne sont pas les candidats qui manquent. Parmi eux, Daouda Sonko, jeune Sénégalais dont l’ambition dévorante l’a poussé à quitter son Dakar natal pour conquérir le monde de la mode parisienne.

Grande asperge d’un mètre 85, vêtu d’un savant mélange de couleurs —pantalon noir slim et long manteau sombre, le tout rehaussé d’une épaisse écharpe grise— ne laisse pas indifférent.

Toutefois ce qui frappe en premier chez ce jeune homme de 23 ans, mis à part son physique avantageux, c’est sa réserve. Le contraste est réel entre l’homme qui figure sur les photos et celui qui est attablé dans un café de l’avenue d’Opéra à Paris. Un homme qui semble introverti.

La mode dans la peau

«C’est à 17 ans que tout a commencé, pour moi, j’ai commencé à découvrir l’univers de la mode», confie-t-il, en souriant, d’un air gêné, dévoilant une rangée de dents blanches et alignées.

Sa bande d’amis, dont la plupart sont dans le milieu, l’a influencé et encouragé à se lancer.

«Quand j’étais seul à la maison, je regardais les défilés et j’imitais ensuite les mannequins dans le couloir», se remémore-t-il.

La démarche, il l’a ainsi apprise.

«Mon premier casting a été Sira (Salon internationale de la représentation africaine) Vision à Dakar», explique encore Daouda Sonko.

Il arrive à passer plusieurs étapes du concours Sira Vision mais reste au pied de la marche. Raison invoquée: il lui manque un peu d’épaisseur.

Petit rappel pour les profanes: même si les critères d’un mannequin homme sont beaucoup moins stricts que pour les femmes, et leur carrière est plus longue, leur physique doit remplir quelques conditions

Leur peau doit être impeccable: pas d’acné, pas de cicatrices. Au niveau de la silhouette, moins standardisée que pour les femmes, on trouve des mannequins très androgynes, minces et à la silhouette presque d’adolescent. Et également des hommes bien charpentés, à la carrure imposante, qu’apprécient beaucoup les agences de mannequins.

Daouda ne se résigne pas et continue à persévérer. C’est ainsi qu’il défile pour Oumou Sy, célèbre styliste sénégalaise. Mais sa carrière piétine à Dakar. Son travail de commerce, qu’il a débuté à 19 ans et qui l’oblige à se rendre régulièrement au Maroc, lui permet d’économiser assez d’argent pour voir si l’herbe est plus verte ailleurs.

Se battre contre les clichés

Fils unique de parents séparés, son rêve n’a pas gagné le cœur de sa famille. Ils ont d’ailleurs eu du mal à avaler la pilule. «Mais j’étais déjà trop investi», lâche-t-il.

Car les clichés ont la vie dure. Un homme mannequin, c’est inconcevable. Surtout dans une famille traditionnelle peule (ethnie de nomades et semi-nomades vivant en Mauritanie, au Sénégal, en Guinée, au Mali, au Burkina Faso, au Niger, au Tchad, au Soudan mais on les retrouve également au Nigeria, au Cameroun, au Togo) attachée à l’idée qu’être mannequin n’est pas un métier, et encore moins un métier d’homme.

Le regard de ses compatriotes a aussi été cruel.

«Daouda s’est fait insulter de tous les noms, les gens l’ont beaucoup injurié», confie son amie, qu’il considère comme sa sœur, Fatou. A 22 ans, elle aussi est mannequin et commence à en vivre.

«La majorité des gens au Séngal pensent que les mannequins sont des personnes de mauvaise vie», se désole Daouda.

«Au Sénégal, tous les mannequins sont considérés comme des putes, ils ne comprennent pas que notre physique est notre gagne-pain», résume, quant à elle, Fatou.

Un mannequin noir est métis

C’est en septembre 2011 que Daouda débarque seul à Paris. Visa d’étudiant en stylisme, économie en poche et rêve plein la tête, il atterri dans une auberge de jeunesse dans le XIVe arrondissement de Paris. Et il fait rapidement les premières erreurs des débutants.

«Je suis tombé dans pas mal de pièges, rapporte le jeune Daouda, contrit. De l’argent parti comme ça», plaisante-t-il en se tapant la tête avec la paume de sa main.

 «Il me fallait un book. Un photographe m’a contacté sur Facebook et m’a proposé de le réaliser», pousuit-il.

Le jeune homme débourse alors 400 euros. Shooting terminé, argent encaissé, le jeune Sonko ne reverra pas l’ombre d’un book ou de son argent.

S’ajoute la dure réalité du métier, où pour briller il faut faire preuve de ténacité et surtout être disponible. Difficile pour Daouda qui doit jongler entre ses études et les castings.

Et puis «le marché pour les blacks est restreint. En France, c’est difficile de percer pour un gars noir comme Daouda», explique son amie mannequin Fatou.

Et d’ajouter:

«Le type africain pour les agences, ce sont des hommes métis avec des traits ultra fin», détaille-t-elle.

Ce que confirme Daouda.

«Dans les castings je suis souvent le seul noir, les plus foncés sont des métis», dit-il.

La mode, ton univers impitoyable

Et la concurrence est rude. L’univers de la mode n’est pas aussi rose et glamour qu’on le pense. Il faut savoir qu’il n’y a pas assez de clients pour le nombre de mannequins disponibles. Dans les castings, il y a 300 mannequins pour un sélectionné.

Daouda ne vit pas encore de son métier. Il collabore toutefois avec deux agences de mannequins Urban Model à Paris et Guest Model management en Espagne. En mai dernier, il a défilé dans les rues de Paris pour la marque brésilienne «Sable chaud».

On lui a même proposé de travailler en Pologne mais son visa ne lui permet pas de se rendre là-bas. Il a décliné l’offre. En attendant, Daouda continue à passer des castings. Il est actuellement à Accra, capitale du Ghana, où il défile pour un jeune créateur.

Il rêve d’une carrière à l’image des modèles qui l’inspirent comme le mannequin américain Tyson ou encore feue la Guinéenne Katoucha. Mais à terme, il espère créer sa propre marque de vêtement comme Gilles Touré, Alpha Di, pour laisser une trace.

Qu’on se le dise: Daouda Sonko est un nom à retenir.

slate

Lu par 6371 Boytown

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